Geoff Unger: IFMGA / UIAGM Guide
The traverse of Il CervinoAs I sit in the sun nursing hands and feet that are sore from rock climbing, I have no desire to dwell on suffering in the alpine. I use these times of climbing on warm rock as necessary breaks from the cold, which help to rejuvenate me for the next alpine adventure. I am struck by the irony of my words because there snow lies on the hillsides above town here in Moab, but by contrast it is very warm here as opposed to guiding on the 4000 meter peaks of the Alps. One recent trip where the cold temperatures were tempered by the quality of the climbing and the summit was an ascent of the Matterhorn via the Italian Ridge. The route embodies the elements of a classic rock ridge climb in the Alps and hold greater challenges than the well-known Hornli Ridge. Zermatt is the jumping off point for most Matterhorn climbs, which was no different for us. In order to reach the Italian side we took the Swiss lift system up to the lift station at Matterhorn Glacier Paradise and walked down the ski pistes on the Italian side. And yes, they still ski up high in the Alps in the late summer on the glacier. It was a relief to reach Italy because the lift-ride cost about a fifth of the Swiss lifts and the espresso got much, much better. After a midday meal at the mid station of the Italian lifts we made our way up the trail to the talus slopes and rock slabs to reach the Carrel Hut just 600 meters from the summit of Europe's most iconic peak. The hut perches on the Italian Ridge of the Matterhorn and it seems that a strong alpine wind could cause the whole structure to vibrate. The Europeans, however are gifted at securing these huts just about anywhere and the views are unparalleled from these airy stances. It is not every day you can stand on the porch of your accommodation and stare 800 meters down the northwest face of the Matterhorn. It must have been one of the busiest weekends of the year because the fifty person refuge was filled beyond maximum capacity. By the time we arrived at the hut there was only space remaining on the top bunks and only a few at that. We spread our sleeping bags out to claim our slice of the remaining mattresses and headed downstairs to start brewing up tea and dinner. The kitchen was just as crowded and quite dirty with use. We managed to find a clean corner of one table to make our evening meal. Before bed we went out to the terrace to take in the view. The clouds swirling around the hut only allowed brief glimpses of the route and the exposure. The effect was magical and increased the alpine feel of the route. By the time everyone was settled into bed it was getting late and the temperature inside the hut began to climb and made sleeping difficult and people rose very early to begin the climb. In the morning we took a leisurely approach to starting off and planned on being on the route all day to make the traverse up and over and reach the last gondola ride back to Zermatt. The route is in your face right from the hut with pieces of fixed chain to aid you in the steeper sections. There are a few distinct sections of steeper rock that have either chain or fat ropes to hand over hand up. These are natural bottlenecks on the route and there is generally some waiting to be done while the party in front of you toils up the rock. During these pauses I found that it was important to have my Screamer fleece beanie pulled down to cover my ears and the collar of my jacket turned up to keep out the cold. Then it is time to spring into action and fly up the fixed chain as fast as you can to avoid angering the local guide who is inevitably on your heels only to wait at the base of the next section of fixed line. Finally the fixed ropes go away as the ridge eases off for a few hundred meters of lower angle mixed climbing on rock, snow and ice. Soon we will be on the summit taking photos and looking ahead to the 1300 meter descent to the Hornli Hut by the ridge of the same name and suddenly it happens. We have climbed as far as we can and reach the iron cross on the Italian Summit of Il Cervino. Then we cross to the Swiss side to their summit of the Matterhorn and descend with the rest of the European climbing community to civilization and a bottle of wine over dinner in Zermatt to reward us for our accomplishment. Geoff Unger |
